Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi are prepared for a celebration in Milan.
MILAN — With menswear presentations for the upcoming spring and winter focusing on nocturnal tailoring with whimsical embellishments, Milan is prepared to party. Think glitter and sparkles, playful designs that invite shadow dancing, and sensual glimpses of skin with tailoring techniques once only seen in women's clothing.
Here are some highlights from the shows on Saturday during Milan Fashion Week.
BLACK IS BACK FOR DOLCE & GABBANA
If you only considered colour, Dolce & Gabbana went back to its roots: the entire collection for next winter had largely black monochromes, which was excellent for playtime at night. Monochromes of grey and white played a supporting role.The ensembles were anything but plain, despite having little sparkle. A collection centred on tailoring was produced by designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana with the late-night syncopated club beats in mind.
You can get to the club door by wearing a long overcoat or a big cape. The dramatic hourglass tailoring of coats and jackets with curved waistlines and broad shoulders imitates the way men's corsetry, obi belts, and cummerbunds squeeze the waist from the inside. A strobe light picks up the sequins and glitter on the clothing, while muscle knits and sheer tops highlight the bodies.
Among the front-row attendees were Italian singer Blanco and Machine Gun Kelly.
GET OUT OF HERE WITH EMPORIO ARMANI
Giorgio Armani has been a major player in the fashion industry for more than 40 years. His most recent line for Emporio Armani depicted a physical map of his adopted Milan, with models circling the runway to provide a bird's-eye view of a plan of the city's old town.
The collection was influenced by aviation, and it featured elements of tailoring from the heyday of flight, when dandies like Charles Lindbergh made history by flying over the Atlantic alone.
The mood was created by a furry-collared, belted grey jumpsuit, an aviator cap, and tall boots. When he lands, he sees the season's invention: muted plaid suits with pants trimmed just above the boot. In satchels and nautical bags, equipment is stored.
A bold silhouette is created by cosy knits coupled with leather jackets and pants, some of which have antique finishes. The real dandy, however, is seen wearing vibrant daywear, such as a stunning wrap coat in chic camel, velvet coats in rich hues, and silk shirts paired with foulards in vivid accent colours like magenta, purple, and mauve.
Utility belts and leather harnesses gave the outfit some edge. Boots have pouches on top that are belted. Aviator sunglasses with mirrors finish the outfit.
At the conclusion of the presentation, Armani, 88, cheerfully scooped up a pouch that a model had dropped as he addressed the audience.
FENDI SHINES A BIT OF SKIN
The Fendi winter collection exposes skin in ways that were previously only acceptable for women.
Knit and button-down one-shoulder tops expose skin to add seductive drama to the appearance. Knitwear was so light and barely there. For the workplace, a little layering restored some modesty, but it could be quickly undone for a shift into the evening.
An asymmetrical cape that wrapped around the body of long coats was a tailoring trick that was imitated in pants by a wraparound one-sided skirt. The result was warm and encompassing, providing a cocoon as we re-enter the outside world.
The knit caps featured cartoon-cool wig shapes with perky flips and other whimsical designs, such as a beanie with back fringe. Fringe is also a common finishing touch for capes, sweeping coats, and scarves. Bombers had an aged, antique quality to them. The predominant colour scheme consisted of subdued grey, oatmeal, and burned umber tones that contrasted mauve and lavender. On evening attire, graphite beading caught the light.
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